Settings for an astrophotography session

Picture Quality: Raw + JPEG. If the memory card has room, I like to have the camera save each picture in both formats. Each file serves as a backup of the other, and the JPEG file contains exposure data that can be read by numerous software packages. This takes only 20% more space than storing raw images alone.

Review: Off. At an observing session with other people, you'll want to minimize the amount of light emitted by your camera.

LCD Brightness: Low. In the dark, even the lowest setting will seem very bright.

LCD Display When Power On: Off. On the Canon XTi (400D) and similar cameras that use their LCD screen to display camera settings, you probably don't want the display shining continuously at night. Instead, switch it on with the DISP button when you want to see it.

Auto Power Off: Never. You don't want the camera turning itself off during lulls in the action; at least, I don't.

Long-Exposure Noise Reduction: Your decision. If turned on, this feature will eliminate the hot pixels in your images by taking a dark frame immediately after each picture and automatically subtracting it. This takes time, and as you become more experienced, you'll prefer to take dark frames separately and subtract them during image processing.

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Understanding Adobe Photoshop Features You Will Use

Understanding Adobe Photoshop Features You Will Use

Adobe Photoshop can be a complex tool only because you can do so much with it, however for in this video series, we're going to keep it as simple as possible. In fact, in this video you'll see an overview of the few tools and Adobe Photoshop features we will use. When you see this video, you'll see how you can do so much with so few features, but you'll learn how to use them in depth in the future videos.

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